Embracing the Unexpected: My Day in Karaganda
Kazakhstan has been full of surprises, from its breathtaking landscapes to its rich history. After living in Almaty for over a week, I've experienced both expected and unexpected adventures. Does this mean it will always turn out for the worse? Of course not! Sometimes, it can be a blessing and turn into a positive travel experience.
As an autistic traveler, the unexpected can be difficult to cope with, but I’ve learned that sometimes you have to embrace it. I have learned from travel that sometimes you have to accept and say “yes” to the unexpected. Dealing with the unexpected has made for memorable travel experiences for me. This was evident during my day in Karaganda, Kazakhstan.
A building that resembles the Soviet era. Cloudy and windy, it felt like a grim and dark vibe while arriving by taxi. I wasn’t sure what to expect during this point.
My first impressions of Karaganda were grim and dark. The cool winds swept through the streets carrying the faint sounds of the church bells from the Russian Orthodox churches I passed. The city is infamous for housing the Karlag administration gulag from Stalin’s time. Taking a Yandex taxi from the airport to my hotel revealed the barren wasteland of Kazakhstan, old Soviet-era buildings, and Russian Orthodox cathedrals.
Russian Orthodox Cathedral in Karaganda observed from inside my taxi.
Unforeseen events had caused my plans for Karaganda to fall through a year prior. I visited with the specific interest of seeing one of the darkest places in Soviet history: the Karlag gulag. For those unfamiliar, a gulag was a network of forced labor camps built during the regime of Soviet dictator Joseph Stalin. Operating between the early 1930s and mid-1950s, the gulag was part of a state-sponsored reign of terror to punish those deemed a threat by the state. As a traveler and a history enthusiast, visiting Karlag was a mission I was determined to complete during my return to Kazakhstan.
The main entrance to the Karlag Museum, home of the administration centre of the Karlag gulag network, which operated from the 1930s until the mid 1950s. What looked normal on the outside would turn into a dark and depressing scene once entering the inside.
There was one problem: my hotel informed me there were no English guides available. My only options were to go alone (which I did, in a Yandex taxi) or meet a Russian guide. Despite my limited Russian, I decided it would be an opportunity. Yet, more dramatic events were to come.
The 45-minute cab ride felt like several hours. The driver spoke only Russian, and I felt like I was in a time machine on the way to visit the gulag, one of many where millions of accused “enemies of the state” were sent to as punishment, most of who would never return or be seen again. It was an eerie and depressing, yet, important learning experience.
A section showing political prisoners who were sent to the gulag. Few of them would be lucky to survive by escaping or being released, while most would spend the rest of their lives here. It was a difficult and sad site to experience.
Arriving at Karlag, I was without cell reception and had no way to contact the hotel via WhatsApp. Unable to communicate fluently in Russian, I had to find a travel group to join. Thankfully, I paid 2,000 KZT to join a group and met an English-speaking guide named Maria.
How did the unexpected work out for the better? I had an English-speaking Russian guide who had worked at Karlag for 13 years. She facilitated a tour of the saddest and most depressing prison conditions, revealing the horrors of the Stalin regime. The 90-minute tour exposed some of the most sinister practices: torture, forced labor without pay, being confined with 20-30 other prisoners, and unthinkable conditions.
A section honouring the women, some who were high profile figures during Soviet times, who were accused and sent to Karlag during Stalin’s regime.
After the tour, I spoke with Maria about my appreciation for visiting dark sites for educational purposes and to honor the victims of these regimes.
Note: I want to acknowledge and dedicate this post to all the victims who were imprisoned in labor camps. My visit to Karlag to learn firsthand about the repressive nature of the Soviet regime during Stalin’s time. I am deeply thankful for the privilege of being able to walk away freely, fully aware that most prisoners did not have that same freedom.
Still without a signal, I had no way of ordering a taxi. By the grace of God, a German man offered me a lift with his tour group on the bus back to Karaganda.
I met a fellow Canadian named Joe, who was with his wife and two sons. I learned that I was with a church group on a mission to perform services at local churches. It was fascinating to hear about spirituality and faith in God from Joe and the group. They were providing assistance to people in difficult situations and creating a safe space for those in need. I felt relieved and thrilled to be rescued by this amazing group of people who brought me back safely.
The lesson of this day was that the unexpected can arise, and nothing goes according to plan. But that’s how travel should be, right? I find that travel memories are made when the unexpected happens, and you just deal with the situation as it occurs. Initially anxious, I calmed down and decided to accept the unexpected. It couldn’t have turned out better. Positive memories were made, and the rewards were amazing.
Accepting the unexpected has been my theme during my entire time in Kazakhstan. I have learned valuable life lessons this way as a traveler with autism. Breathing in, staying calm, and going with the flow has been an anxiety reliever. I know this can be the case for other autistic travelers too. Practice, patience, and staying composed when the unexpected happens is crucial and will lead to positive outcomes. Don’t forget about better and more exciting memories!
As I prepare for my next adventure in Astana, I’m eager to see what unexpected experiences await me. Stay tuned for more on revisiting Astana for a very special obligation.
