Discovering Azerbaijan: A Journey of Sights, Sounds, and Surprises
It was the early morning hours of October 14, 2022. As the sun set on my final evening in Tbilisi, Georgia, I couldn't help but reflect on the incredible adventures I had experienced. Saying farewell to my travel companions, I readied myself for the next leg of my journey - Azerbaijan. Armed with recommendations from Molly, a new taxi app called Bolt in hand, I embarked to Tbilisi International Airport where I would begin my journey from Georgia to Baku.
Azerbaijan (in red) is situated in the Caucasus region on the Caspian Sea to the east, with Georgia and Russia to the northwest, Armenia to the west and Iran in the south.
Introduction
I first learned of Azerbaijan through the James Bond movie, The World Is Not Enough. Baku was portrayed as having oil fields and caviar resources on the Caspian Sea. As my fascination for Soviet history developed, Azerbaijan caught my eye when I connected with a female friend from Azerbaijan online, who was living in Toronto. She introduced me to Azeri culture, customs and traditional food from Azerbaijan. I suddenly became inspired to make it my mission and visit Azerbaijan to see the realities with my own eyes.
Day 1 - Arrival in Baku
The one-hour flight was a breeze, and soon I found myself at Heydar Aliyev Airport, ready to explore this captivating country. Navigating through immigration, I was greeted by a lovely female officer who, upon spotting Armenian stamps in my passport, asked a few routine questions. Despite initial nerves, I was quickly cleared to enter Azerbaijan. A sigh of relief and I was off to discover Baku.
Strolling along the Caspian Sea upon my arrival in Baku, with the iconic Baku Flame Towers rising behind me on the mountain, symbolizing Azerbaijan as the Land of Fire.
My stay at the Four Seasons provided a luxurious base as I began my exploration. A leisurely stroll along the Caspian Sea introduced me to Khalid, Rafo, and Bahar, whose passion for environmental education left a lasting impression. Over dinner at Qaynana Milli Restoran, hosted by Toma, Chingiz, and his daughter Sarah, we exchanged stories of travel and culture.
Enjoying dinner at Qaynana Milli Restoran in Old Baku with Chingiz (top left), Toma (bottom left), and Chingiz’s daughter Sarah (top right). Highly recommended for first-time travelers to Azerbaijan.
Sarah's curiosity and maturity were truly inspiring. Chingiz, whose personality was welcoming, brash, yet articulate, often described the nationalistic mindset of Azerbaijani society. Toma, who barely understood English, was someone who was quiet, kind and arranged to meet me through an Azerbaijani friend I connected with back in Canada.
Exploring the Old City of Baku with the Maiden Tower, often referred to as the symbol of the city.
Day 2 - A Day Trip to Gabala
With a knowledgeable driver as my guide, I ventured into the breathtaking countryside of Azerbaijan. Stops at a winery, a forest, and a serene lunch by Lake Nohur painted a vivid picture of this diverse landscape. The highlight was Gabala Tufandag Ski Resort, where even cloudy skies couldn't diminish the beauty. Here, I met Svetlana, a fellow traveler from Russia, and a group of delightful women from Israel, enriching my journey with diverse perspectives.
Lake Nohur in the Gabala region of Azerbaijan! This popular destination attracts both locals from across Azerbaijan and tourists from Turkey and Russia.
Day 3 - Discovering Baku's Rich Heritage
Returning to Baku, I embarked on a journey through its history. The Old City's Maiden Tower and the Palace of the Shirvashahs stood as testaments to Azerbaijan's storied past. Meeting Gulzar and Zeb, a couple blending Turkish, Pakistani, and Azerbaijani cultures, highlighted the rich tapestry of this Muslim-majority society.
Turkey and Azerbaijan bond over their similarities with food, the dialects in Turkish and Azeri languages and belonging to the Turkic family tree. Throughout my stay in Azerbaijan, I observed Turkish and Azeri flags hoisted next to each other. Local Azeris often refer to the relationship as “two countries, one nation”.
Dressed in the traditional Azerbaijani arkhalig, a long, tight-waist jacket made of luxurious fabrics like silk, satin, cloth, cashmere, and velvet. This is one of my most iconic photos and a cherished symbol of my visit to Azerbaijan.
Culinary Delights and Cultural Connections
No trip is complete without indulging in local cuisine. Mangal Steak House treated me to a delectable blend of Azerbaijani and Western flavors, while a visit to the 360 Bar at Hilton Hotel led to a charming encounter with Camilla, a Georgian traveler. These culinary experiences and chance meetings added layers to my adventure.
Interior of Mangal Steak House in Baku. One of Azerbaijan’s premier restaurants and a must visit for those with a beef appetite.
Day 4 - Gobustan and Reflection
A tour to Gobustan, guided by a knowledgeable local, offered insights into ancient Azerbaijani history. From the iconic Mud Volcanoes to the Museum of Gobustan, each stop unveiled a piece of this country's past. Wrapping up with a relaxing afternoon exploring modern Baku and a massage at Four Seasons, I couldn't help but reflect on the whirlwind of experiences.
Sitting on the edge of Azerbaijan's famous mud volcanoes. Made of cold mud, these unique formations are part of a collection of over 500 mud volcanoes worldwide, with half of them located right here in Azerbaijan.
A Journey of Growth and Gratitude
As I packed for the journey home, I felt a sense of accomplishment and gratitude. This month-long adventure had pushed me physically, mentally, and emotionally, leaving me with cherished memories. Each encounter, each meal shared, and each sight explored had enriched my understanding of Azerbaijan and its people.
Building Bridges Beyond Borders
An unexpected highlight was meeting Anna from Azerbaijan in Toronto, months after my trip. Our bond transcended borders, culminating in shared celebrations and newfound friendships. These connections, born from a love of travel and curiosity, are what make journeys like these truly unforgettable.
A short time after my trip, I connected with Anna, a woman from Azerbaijan who now lives in my hometown, Toronto. She was fascinated by my visit and began efforts to establish ties with the Azerbaijani community.
Final Thoughts
As I bid farewell to Azerbaijan, I carry with me a heart full of love, kindness, and appreciation. This epic adventure has been a testament to the beauty of exploration and the warmth of human connections. To my family, whose support fueled every step of this journey, I am eternally grateful.
Until the next adventure beckons, I look forward to cherishing these memories, sharing stories with loved ones, and dreaming of what the future holds.
