Discover Riyadh: A Vibrant Introduction to My Arabian Adventure

Having spent two full nights in Qatar, I departed on Saudia to travel to Riyadh, the capital of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. It had been many months of planning and collaborating with 88 Destinations, the tour operator I would be traveling with across Saudi Arabia.

I have an infatuation with Arabic and Muslim countries and was so excited to be arriving in Saudi Arabia for the first time. Where better to begin my journey than through the vibrant capital, Riyadh?

First Impressions:

Arriving in Riyadh on Saudia Airlines, Saudi Arabia’s national airline carrier, I was amazed by the friendliness of the local Saudis on the flight and upon arrival. I was required to get a tourist visa to enter Saudi and was greeted warmly by the immigration official, fingerprinted on the machine, and officially entered my newest and 57th country. I was greeted with open arms, and the people were super friendly. The buildings were modern and clean.

Nadj Village:

After getting a free upgrade to a suite at the Warwick Riyadh, I was recommended to try traditional Saudi cuisine at Nadj Village. There, I spontaneously met a Dutch gentleman in Riyadh on business and decided to share a meal together. Feasting on traditional Saudi Kapsa chicken, rice, and apricots, Sebastian and I shared travel stories, talked about business, and met two other expats from Poland living in Riyadh. It was the perfect way to kickstart my experience in Saudi Arabia.

Nadj Village, where I began my food journey in Saudi Arabia, offered a feast of traditional Saudi dishes. From chicken kabsa to rice, lamb, and hummus, I was told this meal was meant for two people. Truthfully, this spread could easily feed up to six people!

Edge of the World:

I arrived a couple of days early in Riyadh to visit Edge of the World, a series of cliffs two hours from Riyadh that overlook the lost seas that once existed in Saudi millions of years ago. It was the most incredible experience, and the full experience is shared in my Edge of the World blog.

Tahliah Street:

A visit to Riyadh is not complete without checking out Tahliah Street in the heart of the city centre. This vibrant area features a mix of local and international restaurants from the Middle East, along with Western retail brands like Nike and Adidas. The atmosphere reminded me of Bourbon Street in New Orleans, with many shops and cafes open 24 hours. Locals are welcoming and love engaging with foreigners visiting for the first time. While exploring the scene, I dined at Washna, a Syrian restaurant specializing in authentic cuisine from Aleppo. Feasting on mixed grilled kebabs, I was captivated by the restaurant’s lively ambiance and the exquisite flavors of Syrian food, which I believe ranks among the best in the Middle East.

Tahliah Street walkway featuring excellent cafes and restaurants open 24 hours. On the right is Barbar, a Beirut-based shawarma chain famous in Lebanon. I decided to pass on the opportunity to try it. Perhaps one day, when I visit Lebanon.

Deera Square:

Disclaimer: Some upcoming content might be graphic in nature and might not be suitable for all readers. Discretion is advised.

One of the largest public squares in Riyadh, Deera Square is located in the Al-Dirah neighborhood in the south of the city, adjacent to the al-Hukm Palace and Imam Turki bin Abdullah Grand Mosque. The square features numerous gatherings, shops, and cafes for locals and tourists. I arrived early and realized the shops were closed due to early hours. Most shops don’t open until 4 p.m. and many close during prayer time. Not long ago, it was mandatory in Saudi to close shops during prayer times (usually for 30 minutes every day). Nowadays, shops can operate or close voluntarily during prayer times.

Deera Square in the Al-Dirah District of Riyadh. A public space that is quiet during the day and very lively at nighttime. Refer to the paragraph below to learn what this square was famous (or infamous) for.

I walked around the square and was one of only a few people exploring the site. It was a perfect opportunity for pictures. I sat down at a cafe with two women from the Netherlands, who were traveling across Saudi Arabia—much like I would be doing with my group in a few days' time.

Deera Square is a site of controversy as it’s infamously referred to as “Chop-Chop Square.” Until as recently as 2022, it was the site for public executions, usually by beheading. It was subject to debate on whether I should visit, knowing this was the site where many of these executions took place. I ultimately decided to visit, and it has both the feel of a safe and friendly gathering spot for families, locals, and travelers, but at the same time, an eerie feeling knowing that not long ago, convicted criminals would be put to death in front of witnesses. Filming and taking pictures were strictly prohibited during these events.

A Reunion with Eid:

Six years ago, I began my journey to Saudi Arabia by meeting Eid at the Steigenberger Hotel in Dubai. It was the first time I had met a Saudi local wearing a traditional white thobe. Fast forward to the present day, Eid picked me up in his luxurious BMW and gave me a VIP tour of Riyadh. We went to a restaurant called Masqouf London in the Al-Nakheel District, where we enjoyed traditional Saudi cuisine, smoked shisha, and engaged in a meaningful dialogue about current events, including those in the Middle East. Eid shared his unique perspective on the world, including a story about how living in America with his family had profoundly influenced his worldview.

Reunited with my local friend Eid, while eating, smoking shisha and enjoying fun laughs while sharing world stories together. Eid and I first met in Dubai in 2019 and was the early stages of my road to Saudi Arabia.

Kingdom Tower:

One thing I admire in cities across the world is tall skyscrapers. From the Empire State Building in New York to the International Commerce Centre in Hong Kong and Burj Khalifa in Dubai, I have been infatuated with high-rise buildings since doing a project as a kid in special education school. Kingdom Tower in Riyadh was another building that did not disappoint. Shaped like a bottle opener and rising over 99 stories, it is the feature highlight of Riyadh and a must-visit for travelers. The nighttime views of Riyadh are spectacular. My group and I wanted to catch the sunset but were held back by heavy traffic and didn’t make it on time. However, I was elated to conclude my time in Riyadh with one breathtaking view of the skyline.

Observing the views of the Riyadh skyline at night from the top of the Kingdom Tower. A must visit when coming to Riyadh and can make the argument it’s suggested to visit in the evening to see Riyadh light up at night.

Fun fact: Four Seasons Hotel, a Toronto-based hotel chain, is situated in the Kingdom Tower. There is also access to a shopping mall for all the shoppers who want to purchase international and local retail products.

Final Thoughts:

Riyadh is a bustling city with hospitable people, rich traditional culture, and modern buildings. It balances old architecture with a business-administration vibe. One thing about Riyadh I found challenging was the lack of pedestrian walkways, a trend that would be prevalent across cities in Saudi Arabia, especially in Jeddah. Other than Tahliah Street (see above), I found it incredibly challenging to walk. Sometimes you have to consider taking an Uber or Careem taxi just to get across the street. This is time-consuming and unnecessary. The reasoning for the lack of pedestrian walkways is the excruciating heat during the summer months.

Walls of the fortress of At-Turaif, where my group and visited during our Riyadh tour. The interior and design felt like it’s out of a movie set.

Overall, Riyadh is a very safe, open, and fun city to visit. Would I say it was my favorite part of Saudi? Definitely not! Stay tuned as I take you into the cultural aspects of Saudi Arabia when I travel to the AlUla region.

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The Edge of the World: A Sunset Adventure in Saudi Arabia