Return To Astana - Another Weekend in Kazakhstan’s Futuristic Capital.

Almost one year to the day after I first visited Kazakhstan, I found myself back in a familiar city. This time, my return to Astana followed a sobering visit to Karaganda—Kazakhstan’s grim, industrial city known for its dark history. After spending an afternoon learning about the brutal past at the Karlag gulag, I set out for a more uplifting destination: Astana, Kazakhstan's vibrant capital.

I had embarked on a weekend trip from Almaty, traveling north by taxi to Astana. The three-hour Yandex ride with a non-English speaking driver added a layer of adventure to the experience. With my limited Russian, we managed some basic conversation as we sped across the vast, flat plains of northern Kazakhstan. Reaching my hotel in Astana felt like a reward after the long journey—and a reunion with my local friend, Zukhra, made it even better.

Hungry from the trip, Zukhra suggested we have lunch at Ali Baba, a popular spot serving delicious Uzbek plov. We celebrated my return over heaping plates of flavorful pilaf and tender manti dumplings. Afterward, we strolled along the Ishim River, enjoying the crisp air before I returned to my hotel to rest, preparing for the special day ahead.

Catching up with my friend Zukhra in Astana! We first met during my visit last year and have stayed in touch ever since.

I had come back to Astana with one goal in mind: to visit the largest synagogue in Central Asia, the Beit Rachel Synagogue. Growing up in a Jewish family, I’ve always been interested in exploring Jewish communities around the world. I had heard of the small but vibrant Jewish presence in Kazakhstan and, having missed the chance during my last trip, I was determined to visit this time.

Zukhra and two of her students joined me on the visit, eager to learn more about Jewish culture. We were warmly welcomed by the synagogue's rabbi, who graciously invited us to participate in a traditional Jewish tefillin prayer. Sharing this moment with Zukhra's students was incredibly touching, and the experience gave me a deep sense of connection to my heritage, even in a distant land.

Visiting the Beit Rachel Synagogue in Astana, the largest in Central Asia. It was a truly meaningful experience to honor my Jewish faith in the heart of Kazakhstan.

Later, we enjoyed a leisurely pizza lunch at Lugano and after parting ways, I visited the Museum of Future Energy, which showcases the innovations and technology from the 2017 World Expo. As I explored the interactive exhibits on astronomy, solar energy, and marine science, I befriended a lovely woman named Alua, who made the experience even more enjoyable with her insights and enthusiasm.

Exploring the future of Kazakhstan at the Museum of Future Energy, located at the site of Expo 2017. The museum showcases cutting-edge technologies, innovations, and developments that were unveiled to the world in Astana.

That evening, I returned to Saksaul Kazakh Cuisine Restaurant, where I was greeted by the same server who had served me a year earlier. This time, they treated me to VIP service, making me feel like a returning friend. To top off the evening, I took a stroll to the Ritz Carlton, where I stumbled upon a lively Kazakh wedding celebration. It was a beautiful way to end the day before heading back to my hotel to pack for my return to Almaty. But my time in Astana wasn’t quite over yet!

Returning to my favorite restaurant in Astana, Saksaul, where I was warmly welcomed and even had the chance to try on a traditional Kazakh costume.

On my final morning, I received a last-minute invitation to visit Baiterek Tower. There, I reunited with my friend Nazerke and her group. Thanks to Nazerke, I got to enter through the VIP entrance, and we shared a special moment together as we rode the elevator to the top of the tower. Standing there, overlooking the futuristic skyline of Astana, I felt like my journey had come full circle.

My final moment in Astana included an exclusive VIP tour of Baiterek Tower, thanks to my friend Nazerke. Having visited this spot a year ago, reuniting with Nazerke made it even more special—an unforgettable way to conclude my time in Astana before heading back to Almaty.

As I boarded the plane back to Almaty, I couldn’t help but reflect on the weekend. It had begun with a somber visit to a former prison camp and ended in a soaring tower in one of the world’s most modern cities. Travel is all about embracing the unexpected and being open to spontaneity—and this trip, with its emotional highs and lows, reminded me of just that.

The Solar System exhibition at the Astana Expo Museum felt like stepping into outer space, offering an incredible opportunity to learn more about space exploration and science.